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Crochet Basics

Get Hooked–Types of Crochet Hooks

November 4, 2019
Pictured:
Loops & Threads 6.5 mm
Yarnology 6.5 mm
Boye 6.5 mm

When I first started to learn how to crochet, I had absolutely no idea what I was doing. I just knew I needed a hook and a skein of yarn and never did I think about yarn weight and hook size. Well, years later, that all changed when I decided to take crochet more serious as my hobby.

As a beginner, I started off with a starter set of Boye brand hooks. Honestly, I’d recommend this for anyone starting out because of the variety, cost and simplicity of the hooks.

Then one day I lost a 5.5 mm hook, so I would go to the local Michael’s Store and grab a 5.5 mm hook…made by Susan Bates. To me, they looked the same, but to the experienced crocheter…they would know the difference. This is when I learned about tapered versus in-line crochet hooks because of my struggle while stitching when I got home. My mind was blown and naturally my Type A personality had to know more details and figure out the anatomy of these hooks!

Now that I’m an experienced crocheter and I have married the love of my life, I would have never guessed we would be creating crochet hooks together. So with that said, I think it’s important for everyone to know the differences between the variety of hooks that are offered out there…

The Anatomy of a Crochet Hook
We’ll start out with the anatomy of the hook. We’ll use the Susan Bates and Boye brands as references since they are commonly used and many individuals have seen these hooks on the shelves of their local craft stores.

  • Hook: This portion of the body is where you will insert into previously made stitches and allows you to grab hold of the yarn. Some individuals prefer a “pointier” tip and some individuals prefer more of a “rounded” tip. If the tip of the hook is too sharp, you may find your yarn splitting. If the tip of the hook is too blunt, then you may find it difficult to slip into each stitch.
  • Throat: This portion of the body is where you’re able to maintain some control over your yarn and where it’s important to ensure you have the right size yarn for the right size hook. For instance, you don’t want to use a 4 mm hook with a bulky yarn because it’ll probably get you no where.
  • Shaft: This portion of the body is where the size of your hook is determined (i.e., 4 mm vs. 6.5 mm, etc.) and is where you hold your loops for your stitches.
  • Grip: This portion of the body is where your thumb is able to rest. Now, how you grip may depend on your preference or how you were taught. Typically, individuals may hold the hook like it’s a knife (like myself) or they may hold it like a pencil. Typically, you will see your hook size labeled here on aluminum hooks.
  • Handle: This is the remaining portion of the body. Typically, you will see your hook size labeled here on an ergonomic style hook.

In-Line versus Tapered Crochet Hook
What’s the difference?

  • In-Line Crochet Hook. The Susan Bates crochet hooks are what people typically think of when it comes to the in-line crochet hook. It basically means that the hook is “in-line” with the shaft. The hook itself may seem like it has more of a “point” and has a “deeper” cut. You will also find that the in-line hook will typically have the same width between the shaft and throat of the hook.
  • Tapered. The Boye crochet hooks are what people typically think of when it comes to the tapered crochet hook. It is not “in-line” with the shaft and you’ll notice that it has a smoother transition. The tapered hook will typically becomes more narrow from the shaft to the hook.

So you might be thinking right now, “So, which one should I use? Is one better than the other?” Honestly, it depends on the individual’s preference. Many beginners will prefer the tapered style, but that doesn’t mean that everyone prefers it. We started off making our crochet hooks as in-line, but it was found that tapered was preferred by the majority of our customers. Some individuals may struggle with tension and if that’s the case, then they may end up choosing the in-line hook. Some individuals may find it easier for the tapered hook to slide through the stitches. Again, everything is based on individual preference.

Crochet Hook Material Types

  • Aluminum (i.e., Boye, Susan Bates, etc.). This is the classic beginner hook and go-to hook for many people. They’re cheap, easily accessible, and user-friendly. Honestly, I pick-up one of these for when I travel around so I don’t whine and cry when I lose a worthy hook. The only downside to these types of hooks is that it’s not ergonomically friendly, which means that your hands my end up cramping if you’re not properly taking breaks or stretch your hands appropriately. If you’re looking for ease of yarn being able to glide and to have some speed–this may be a choice for you.
  • Bamboo & Wood. Both of these can be a bit pricey, but can be worth the purchase. Bamboo is good if you’re not looking for your yarn to glide too much, but the downside is that you may find that the hook can bend over time. Wood is great too, but you’ll have to make sure it’s properly coated and well taken care of. Wood hooks are typically handmade and that may cause the hook price to increase drastically if you’re concerned about budget.
  • Clay. You’ll find many “makers” who use aluminum hooks and add a clay handle. These handles can be pretty cool when the individual is able to sculpt characters and designs into the handle.
  • Ergonomic. This is a go to for many experienced crocheters. You’ll find ergonomic crochet hooks with rubber grips, clay, wood, resin, etc. and it helps reduce the cramping. However, do keep in mind that even though a hook may be visually appealing, that it may have some weight to it depending on the material it is made of. I’m biased, but I love the crochet hooks we make because my husband made them extremely light weight (less than 1 oz!) and comfortable.
  • Knook. Basically, knitting with a crochet hook. It’s a crochet hook that has an eye (hole) at the end of the hook. I’ve personally never done this type of fiber art, but you can look into it online if it sparks some curiosity.
  • Light Up. When I first saw these, I thought it was pretty cool. Typically, the price for one of these hooks are fair since you’re paying for the capability and as well as the ergonomic feature. If you’re a night owl and don’t want to keep your spouse up or if you’re a passenger in a car with poor lighting–this is perfect! The only downsides are: (1) making sure you have a battery that’s functional; and (2) the battery and wiring will ad a bit of weight to your handle. We have made resin glow in the dark hooks which kind of fall into this category.
  • Plastic. Plastic hooks are pretty light weight and the only con I can really think of is that they look cheap–which may be why I don’t really go for these. However, when I need a ginormous crochet hook for extra bulky yarn, then I’ll gravitate towards this option.
  • Resin. This is what we make our crochet hooks out of. The majority of “makers” who use resin will typically use an aluminum hook and create a resin handle to make it more ergonomic, just like the clay hooks, and can turn out beautiful. Our crochet hooks are made of full resin from hook to handle. Resin can be a delicate material, but is extremely lightweight. It’s very difficult to get below a 4.5 mm crochet hook due to the density of material, but we’ve managed to figure out how to get ours down to 2.75 mmm!
  • Steel. I’ll talk about this one more later, but these hooks are typically used if you’re working with lace-weight yarns. They’re extremely small and sized differently. One down side to these hooks is that they’re extremely small, so your hand can get tired pretty quick. I would recommend finding an ergonomic style one if you’re able to find one.
  • Tunisian (A.K.A. Afghan): This type of hook is almost a hybrid crochet hook that is on a long handle that looks like a knitting needle. This is a crochet technique where you keep the stitches on the hook just like you would with knitting. It also creates a knit stitch look, which is why I call it “cheater knitting”. I’m not an expert on Tunisian and ahve only dabbled into it, but one of my favorite bloggers, TL Yarn Crafts, has amazing tutorials and patterns for Tunisian crochet if you’re interested!

Crochet Hook Sizes
Some hooks are itty bitty and some hooks are ginormous! The Craft Yarn Council’s Hooks and Needles reference guide is a great resource for the various sizes between using UK versus US terms. My personal preference is using UK terms (millimeter range); however, if you order one of our handmade hooks, you’ll find that we use the US terms (alphabet letters). That’s because it’s easier for us to label our hooks that way.

However, keep in mind that steel hooks are generally associated with lace weight yarns and crochet threads. This means that they are sized differently than the majority of hooks that are out there. I personally do not have much experience with these hooks. They’re extremely small hooks and are more for the advanced crocheters that are out there it the world. They’re weird too! The larger the number is for sizing (i.e., US 14)…the smaller the hook size will be (i.e., 0.75 mm).

If you don’t know what hook size to use with your yarn, then you can refer to the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight System for recommenced hook size for the yarn you’re using–or just use what is suggested on the label of your skein of yarn.

One last thing I would like to say about hook sizes is that little do many people realize that all hook sizes are not created equal with each company used. When my husband and I started creating crochet hooks, we actually used a tool to measure each crochet hook from each company and we learned that not all hooks are created equal. What I mean by that is that if you grab a 4.0 mm hook from Susan Bates and a 4.0 mm hook from Clover USA, they may not measure 4.0 mm—but something close to it. This is extremely important to keep in the back of your mind when you’re working a gauge.

Creating a gauge for your project is another blog I need to generate; however, another important thing to keep in mind is that you want to try and stay consistent with the hook you’re using in a project. For instance, if you use a Boye 5.50 mm hook for a project and then switch to using an ergonomic 5.50 mm hook, you may find that your stitches will slightly change shape due to minor changes in how you hold your hook. Therefore, your gauge may change a bit as well. Those small details can matter for garments and projects that rely on sizes to be accurate.

So What Hook is Best for Me?
Honestly, it’s all up to YOU! It’s all about individual preference due to a variety of factors (i.e., comfort, ease, cost, etc.). As long as you love your hook and what you’re using, that’s what matters!

Psst..if you would like a quick reference guide that is easily accessible, you can use our Pinterest Pin below for your personal board!

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